Remember when you were a kid and liked to build forts? I specialized in a simple toss-the-old-quilt-over-the-card-table approach, then climbed in with a book, a pillow, and a flashlight. My brother took a more elaborate tack: He and his buddies (I'm not naming names) would scour nearby building sites for "spare" lumber, then use it build a multistory tree house with extension cords strung across the fields, eventually finding an elicit plug in an unsuspecting parent's house. (That they never burned down the hillside with their activities is still one of Marin's mysterious secrets.)
This week I had a chance to check out Marin's latest fort for grownups: Gestalt Haus at the Beat, in Fairfax. Wearing the tagline "Beer, brats, and bikes," it's a magnet for both mountain bikers and road riders (roadies) in search of a place to chill after a ride, especially night rides in the surrounding hills. (Again, no names named here, but I hope they stay on legal fire roads.) Mud-spattered Lycra and lithium-light-topped helmets are the preferred fashions.
Guys (and gals) sit at long polished-wood tables, beer-hall style, inviting conversation. We walked in and immediately recognized friends. On the walls? Bikes. Patrons roll them right through the door and hang them on wall-mounted racks. Great way to promote gear envy (and not risk getting your ride stolen). Kids bounce around in the place on weekends, while their parents talk trails, sip a brew, and check out guides and magazines. Need a dog to pat? There's usually one or two hanging out by the door.
The minimalist menu offers not quite a dozen kinds of meat and vegan sausages, plus optional sauerkraut. (Sophia behind the counter says they focus solo on brats because "that's just what you want when you're done with a ride.) More items will come soon (think pickles and chips--this place will never be haute-cuisine.) As for drinks, the focus is on quality California microbrews and bottled German beers. And note the bottles of Coke: they're from Mexico (cane sugar, not high-fructose corn syrup as in the US batches, notes manager Jeremy Wright). So while Gestalt Haus wouldn't claim to sell health food, it's at least quality food.
A recent Marin IJ review caused some headaches: local health code guys noticed what they considered infractions, so there are some minor changes being made but no long-term impacts predicted by management. So c'mon down to the fort. Just bring your bike, your dog, and your mud.
Gestalt Haus at the Beat (in former Book Beat site)
28 Bolinas Rd.
Fairfax
gestalthausfairfax.com/index.html
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